Cordouan lighthouse: visit the king of the seas

When the sea meets the talent of builders

Built at the end of the XVIᵉ century under Henry III by architect Louis de Foix, then completed under Henry IV, the Cordouan lighthouse was more than just a navigational tool. Thought of as a work of art and a symbol of power, it combined science, faith and technical prowess. In the XVIIIᵉ century, engineer Joseph Teulère gave it its current form: a handsome 68-meter tower built to withstand the onslaught of the open sea.

A living work of art

Inside, the climb becomes a veritable journey through the ages:

• The King's room, paved with marble, evokes the grandeur of the Renaissance;
• the royal chapel, bathed in stained glass, links the sea to the sacred;
• Higher up, the technical rooms and the watch room recount the daily life of the keepers, the last witnesses to a lighthouse still inhabited.

Classified as a historic monument in 1862, Cordouan is the last lighthouse at sea to be guarded and open to visitors.

Visit Cordouan: the adventure of taming the sea

Before you can see the lighthouse, you must first set sail. A visit to the Cordouan lighthouse always begins with a crossing: a moment suspended between two worlds, where the coast recedes and the horizon approaches. Here, every step counts as much as the destination, and the journey is made slowly, to the rhythm of the wind and the tides.

Set sail for the "King of the Seas

From Royan or Le Verdon-sur-Mer, the boats leave the coast in the early morning or during the day, depending on the tides. The crossing takes around 45 minutes: just enough time to feel the salty wind on your skin and see the lighthouse gradually take shape in the distance.
On board, silence settles in, punctuated by the cry of seagulls and the lapping of the water.

A waterfront arrival

As you approach the islet, the sea gently recedes, revealing the rocky plateau of Cordouan. We disembark at low tide, sometimes knee-deep in water. We walk for a few minutes on the sandbanks, between puddles and shells, before reaching the lighthouse gate. This approach on foot gives the visit its full value: it reminds us of the fragility of the site, the power of nature and the patience it takes to get there.

A climb between heaven and earth

Inside, 301 steps lead slowly up to the lantern. Each landing invites you to pause and gaze at the sea or an architectural detail.
At the top, the view opens out over the Gironde estuary, the Médoc beaches and the Royan coastline. And below you, the sea stretches as far as the eye can see: a landscape in perpetual motion, illuminated by the lighthouse for over four centuries.

A visit to be experienced with full awareness

The tour lasts around 1h to 1h30. As soon as you arrive, the guards welcome you and share the history of the site, its anecdotes and secrets. The slow pace of the tour is part of the experience: you climb, stop, breathe and listen to the wind blowing through the stone. Here, time is not lost, but found, in every step, every glance, every ray of light filtering through the stone.

The guardians of light

Even today, Cordouan is the last lighthouse at sea to be manned year-round.
Two keepers take turns on the islet, living to the rhythm of the tides, winds and seasons. Their mission goes beyond simple surveillance: they maintain the lighthouse, welcome visitors, look after the fauna and take part in environmental monitoring of the rocky plateau. At each changeover, the Lighthouses and Beacons boat leaves Le Verdon-sur-Mer, guided by the tide times: an unchanging tradition for centuries.

Daily life at the end of the world

Life on the lighthouse is simple, punctuated by the weather, the sea and visits. There's nothing superfluous here: a workshop, a few supplies, tools, books, and the light that accompanies each day. The guardians often speak of a unique feeling: that of being both isolated and deeply connected to the world, in the heart of Europe's largest estuary. Some recount the flight of guillemots, winter storms, or the absolute beauty of a sunrise over the calm sea.

Watching over a living heritage

The keepers are also the lighthouse 's living memory. They observe erosion, point out restoration needs and accompany the teams working to protect the structure. Every job, every stone cut, every repair is a tribute to the craftsmanship and patience of the builders. Cordouan would not be what it is without the discreet hands that watch over, repair and tell the story.

A legacy to pass on

In 2021, the Cordouan lighthouse was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
International recognition, but above all a promise: to preserve this masterpiece for future generations. For Cordouan not only shines with its light: it also sheds light on what it means to take care of time, the sea and mankind.

A fragile ecosystem to protect

At low tide, theislet of Cordouan is revealed, carried by the breath of the ocean. Around the lighthouse, the sea recedes, revealing a rocky plateau that shelters life. Here, water, sand and stone come together in a delicate harmony that man must preserve.

A living world between two tides

The Cordouan plateau is home to an exceptional ecosystem. At the heart of the Parc naturel marin de l'estuaire de la Gironde et de la mer des Pertuis, it is home to hundreds of animal and plant species: starfish, seaweed, crustaceans, sponges, shellfish...
In this shifting landscape, each tide renews life. Seabirds alight, seaweed ripples, and puddles are home to tiny worlds to observe.

The foreshore, a habitat in motion

The foreshore, the area uncovered at low tide, changes with the hours and the seasons. It can be arid under the sun or frozen by the winter wind, salty, shifting and unpredictable.
The species that live here have learned to adapt to these extreme contrasts, making Cordouan a veritable natural laboratory.
To observe this environment attentively is to learn to slow down and appreciate the richness of the living world.

An environmentally-friendly visit

To protect this fragile balance, visitors to the lighthouse must follow a few simple rules:

• walk only in authorized areas,
• avoid turning over stones or picking up shells,
• bring back your garbage,
• and leave behind a place as clean as you found it.

These simple gestures are perfectly in tune with the spirit of slow tourism: travel at your own pace, without leaving a trace of your passage, and become aware of the beauty of what surrounds you.

Long-lasting light

Every step on the islet is a reminder that the Cordouan lighthouse is more than just a monument: it's a witness to the cohabitation of man and nature. And preserving its environment means prolonging its light. In the silence of the open sea, between wind and foam, this lighthouse continues to teach the essential: observe, respect and pass on.

Boarding the lighthouse

Departures are from Royan or Le Verdon-sur-Mer, depending on tides and weather conditions. The crossing takes around 45 minutes. On board, you enjoy the wind, the changing light and the gradually widening horizon. You then disembark on the islet on foot, often knee-deep in water. An ideal way to experience a moment that's both playful and symbolic.

Lighthouse entrance fees (excluding shipping)

• Low season (April-June / mid-September-November)
  • Full price: €7
  • Reduced rate (3-15 years & unemployed): €6
  • Group rate (20 people or more): €6
  • School price: €3
• High season (July 1-September 15)
  • Full price: €15
  • Reduced rate (3-15 years & unemployed): €11
  • Group rate (20 people or more): -.
  • School price: -

These prices are for lighthouse admission only. Maritime transport must be booked separately with Croisières La Sirène (Royan) or Vedettes La Bohême (Le Verdon-sur-Mer).

Slow Village tips

• Arrive early: allow 30 minutes before departure for boarding.
• Choose your shoes carefully: don't wear flip-flops, prefer sturdy sandals or old-fashioned sneakers.
• Adapt to the weather: a windbreaker or cap depending on the season.
• Take water with you: there is no drinking water at the lighthouse.
• Respect the site: take away your garbage and walk in authorized areas.

Leaving the Cordouan lighthouse means taking a little of its light with you. Once back in your open-air hotel in Marennes d'Oléron on the Atlantic coast, the journey continues in the softness of the coastline. Here, as there, everything invites you to slow down, observe and savor the calm rhythm of the sea.